Benadryl for the Yovo

Benadryl – my dear friend

So, now only did the Benadryl finally help to calm my arm that was all broken out because I'm allergic to my own sweat, but it also made me sleep all night Friday and Saturday (well, the fan helped on Saturday too). It turns out that on the weekends they leave the electricity on most of the time since the big factories that use all of the power aren't working then. So I've been sleeping in front of the fan all day. Until I tried to wash my own clothes…apparently I sucked at it so they had the maid take over and redo it….

What I've learned so far is that I truly do appreciate technology. No more luddite thoughts for me…longing for the times of Jane Austen and the colonies. When it's this hot out, I want me an electric fan in my face. I don't need AC, but it'd be nice to have a more reliable internet connection and running water. Unfortunately, Togo and surrounding countries are facing the consequences of global warming and poor management. A late and shorter rainy season means less water (no running water), less electricity (which is powered by the water) and smaller crops. Hopefully the solar energy will pick up here soon, because this is not very sustainable. Businesses can't compete with the added restraints, and people have to keep going farther and farther to search for potable water.

So, my complaints are really minimal compared to what the poorest are suffering, but I can definitely feel the difference from living in an industrialized country (and I'm not even out in the countryside).

Moving on to the cute munchkins in the neighborhood. Each time I walk past a group of little kids, they get super excited and start singing the song that all of them sing to white people: "Yovo bonsoir, ca va bien? Merci!" (Yovo is the local name for a white person). So they're saying: "White person, good evening, how are you? Thank you!" They get so excited when they sing it that start jumping up and down and waving their arms. I don't know how I'm supposed to take it, but it's very cute to see…I wish I could come up with something to sing back to them. It was sad to learn, however, that some of these kids are so malnourished that even though they look like they're only 2-3 years old, in reality they're older (5-6) and their growth is stunted.

In the village, however, they're not used to seeing white people, and are a bit more shy. Sometimes, the really young ones will start staring at me, and when I make one step toward them, they start crying uncontrollably. In one of my visits, however, there was a gang of about 7 little ones that weren't in school yet and they just kept saying "yovo, bye bye" and following me around everywhere I went. Luckily that day I had brought candy with me, and I was able to give each of them some. So today I got to try homemade tapioca (really tasty but very hot).

Yesterday the director and the mom of the house where I'm living (Mme Bella) took me to visit a house that used to house slaves on their way to be shipped to America. It was the house of a family for several generations until the man who currently lives there did some research and found out what it had been. It is the only house of its type being preserved in Togo (although the work on it hasn't started yet), but apparently the house in Benin has much better explanations.

The slaves lived underground and had to go in or out through the small holes you see at the bottom of the picture (they only went in and out once).

Anyway, it was still very touching to be able to go see this old home where the owner explains that the small holes you see at the bottom of the house go to the cave where the slaves where squashed together in a space only about 2 feet in height and with not enough room even to lie down. We went in through a hole in the floor of the main room that still contains an original dining table and bed from the period. Under the floor in the cave it was all dusty, although when the slaves where there apparently there was also vegetation everywhere to make matters more difficult. They came in and out only through the holes in the ground and of course many died there as well as on the ships. The house was visited by the secretary of UNESCO earlier this year and there should be more research and repairs done soon, that will hopefully make the experience that much more meaningful (according to the director the guide in Benin makes people cry each time).

Ok, well tomorrow's my second week of work. I feel much more oriented now and well rested after this weekend. Oh, I also went to church because they kept asking me if I was going to go. Turns out only the mom and the daughter (Christelle go). I went with Christelle and was a bit bored, but then the music really got going and it was beautiful, and the people sang so well. I probably won't go again (it was also especially stuffy in there), but it was an interesting experience. They like to point out all of the white people to me, and apparently there was one white guy there who was sitting behind us and then left holding a woman's hand, but I didn't even notice him.

So, I'm disappointed, but not surprised, by the results of the French elections. Not that either candidate is really that promising. Hopefully Sarkozy will do some good things for the economy so that France won't exploit Africa as much (a good point brought up by Joseph). Working with Joseph is really very motivating. He's so interested in talking about microfinance and helping the poor and even solar energy. Does anyone know of NGO's that partner to provide solar energy in Africa? Joseph would love to do that.

Also, I've decided to get them a parting gift of a new motorcycle for the loan officers to be able to get to their clients. If anyone's interesting in helping to finance a second bike (total price about $820), please let me know. This would be very useful.

More to come…